At the end of this article, have a think about whether you have changed your mind in response to my question.

Wireless security consists of two main elements: authentication and encryption. Authentication controls access to the network and encryption ensures that malicious users cannot determine the contents of wireless data frames. Although having users manually configure the SSID of a wireless network in order to connect to it creates the illusion of providing an additional layer of security, it does not substitute for either authentication or encryption.

A non-broadcast network is not undetectable. Non-broadcast networks are advertised in the probe requests sent out by wireless clients and in the responses to the probe requests sent by wireless APs. Unlike broadcast networks, wireless clients running Windows XP with Service Pack 2 or Windows Server® 2003 with Service Pack 1 that are configured to connect to non-broadcast networks are constantly disclosing the SSID of those networks, even when those networks are not in range.

Therefore, using non-broadcast networks compromises the privacy of the wireless network configuration of a Windows XP or Windows Server 2003-based wireless client because it is periodically disclosing its set of preferred non-broadcast wireless networks. When non-broadcast networks are used to hide a vulnerable wireless network—such as one that uses open authentication and Wired Equivalent Privacy—a Windows XP or Windows Server 2003-based wireless client can inadvertently aid malicious users, who can detect the wireless network SSID from the wireless client that is attempting to connect. Software that can be downloaded for free from the Internet leverages these information disclosures and targets non-broadcast networks.

This behavior is worse for enterprise wireless networks because of the number of wireless clients that are periodically advertising the non-broadcast network name. For example, an enterprise wireless network consists of 20 wireless APs and 500 wireless laptops. If the wireless APs are configured to broadcast, each wireless AP would periodically advertise the enterprise’s wireless network name, but only within the range of the wireless APs. If the wireless APs are configured as non-broadcast, each of the 500 Windows XP or Windows Server 2003-based laptops would periodically advertise the enterprise’s wireless network name, regardless of their location (in the office, at a wireless hotspot, or at home).

For these reasons, it is highly recommended that you do not use non-broadcast wireless networks. Instead, configure your wireless networks as broadcast and use the authentication and encryption security features of your wireless network hardware and Windows to protect your wireless network, rather than relying on non-broadcast behavior.

( Source of article )

Unfortunately, it doesn’t work in Microsoft Vista – but there is an alternative. It’s called Vistumbler. personally I haven’t tried it, but friends of mine say it looks and feels very simialr to the ‘original’.

The WRT54G, WRT54GS, WRT54GL, and WRTSL54GS are popular Wi-Fi router products from Linksys. The devices are capable of sharing Internet connections among several computers via Ethernet and wireless (802.11b/g) data links.

The WRT54G was first released in 2003. The WRT54GS is nearly identical except for additional RAM and SpeedBooster software.

Linksys released the WRT54GL in 2005 to support third-party firmware based on Linux, after the original WRT54G line was switched from Linux to VxWorks, starting with version 5. The WRTSL54GS is similar to the WRT54GS, while adding additional firmware features and a USB 2.0 port (referred to as StorageLink) which can be used for a USB hard disk or flash drive.

The WRT54G is best known for being the first consumer level network device that had its firmware source code released to satisfy the obligations of the GNU GPL (an example and very popular choice being DDWRT). This allows programmers to modify the firmware to change or add functionality to the device.

Later revisions increased the CPU speed to 200 MHz, and the later Linksys firmware overclocks the MIPS processor to 216MHz to resolve stability issues. Both the RAM and flash memory were doubled to 32 MB and 8 MB, respectively, in the WRT54GS, although both quantities were reduced again in later models.

All models come standard with a 4+1 ports network switch (the Internet/WAN port is also in the same switch, but on a different VLAN) and a wireless chipset by Broadcom which provides Wi-Fi connectivity.

The devices have two removable antennas connected through reverse polarity TNC connectors (except WRTSL54GS).

See other posts on this site regarding ‘unbricking’ of the WRT54G – specifically the V5 which I managed to recover back to a usable state.

The process of banking has been improving over time. Now a bank is so much more than a place where money is stored. We are looking at an increasing incidence of credit card application submission and even more credit cards being issued each day.

Finding a wifi-scanner that worked on the ASUS A636N took a bit of searching, trial and error. Two that I tried working with Pocket PC 2003, not Windows Mobile 5.0 which the Asus comes with.

MiniStumbler (a cut down version of the brilliant netstumbler program) didn’t work. Neither did WiFiGraph. I didn’t get to try Retina but it looks like a good program.

Also, RW Wifi Scanner supposedly works as well, but I did not try this (Note: this app costs $3.99 whereas all the others are freeware).

I tried WiFiFoFum. It has a nice interface – either a list view or radar view which is prefect for war driving (if you are into that sort of thing). It also has the ability to use the GPS and export the co-ordinates to such formats as TomTom POI, netstumbler so they can then be used in those programs.

The download comes with Compact Framework 2.0 SP2, both which are installed via Active Sync. So if you need to uninstall them for any reason, it can be done easily.

To get this to work with my ASUS A636N, I got into the options menu (once started up), and turned the device off/on. worked without any hassles, and the only other option I would turn on is the aggressive scanning feature so you get real time signal strength updates.

At the time of writing I had not tried the GPS (or export) option.

Overall, a handy little utility to have installed on your PDA to scan wireless networks. It certainly helped me find where the blackspots were in my house.

A credit report is meant to be scrutinized. Unfortunately the populace is only concerned with more credit cards. They have gotten into the internet banking too, using their online credit card heavily. The credit cards have indeed lost their actually purpose.

The Eye-Fi memory card adds wireless support to digital cameras that don’t already have it. Perfect to get rid of those pesky cable that clutter up desks.

It supports automatic wireless uploading to your computer as well as social/blogging based photo sites such as Facebook, Picasa and Gallery2.

It’s very easy to do. Just plug your card in, and configure the wireless from your computer. When Eye-Fi is within wireless range, it will automatically upload your pictures for you. The card also performs like a traditional memory card.

The price is around $99 which is a bit steep, but for the convenience factor alone, is well worth the price.

My wireless access point sits down one end of the house, and getting a decent signal is very difficult in all areas of the house. I’ve tried a few different antennas with little or no difference – a complete waste of money. My solution was to add another AP so I had coverage over the whole house.

I have read of a few other (cheap) options. Found one on youtube which looks worth trying …..

I have not yet tried it, but in theory it should work by making the signal more directional/pointed.

Let me know your thoughts and if you’ve had any success.

I decided to write some instructions to go with my other article on unbricking the V5. I noticed, looking at the stats for this site, that the majority of visits were for this post. As I said in that article, I could not find (at that time) any info on how to fixed a bricked V5.

These instructions will not only apply for the V5, but the earlier Linksys wireless routers as well.

First of all, the aerials have to be removed. The base of each aerial is cover by a ‘hood’. To remove the hood, twist it and pull (at the same time) it away from the unit. The picture above shows the hood partly off (on the bottom aerial), and then just needs to be slid off the end of the aerial.
The aerials themselves can now be unscrewed.

The WRT54G is not held together by screws, but by plastic tabs. Cheap, but effective. It can be a bit tricky, but there’s a knack to it.

Look at the picture below:

With the base facing towards you, place your hands on either side of the unit (note: my photo only shows one hand as I had to use the other to hold the camera and take the pic!), and place your thumbs on the feet of the WRT54G as shown. Then gently push your thumbs up and the top section (the blue bit) should separate from the remainder of the unit.

Easy as that!

You can then proceed to my original post and unflash the Linksys.

The ASUS 636N is a PDA and GPS in one. There are other similar products but for the price and features you can’t go wrong. These two units have been around for a while, and the A639 has recently been released that supersedes the 636 range. So I thought the time to buy was right.

Anyway, let’s get to the features and specs …….

Here’s a pic of the A636N:

The specs are as follows:

PU Latest 416MHz Intel® XScale processor
Operating System Latest Microsoft Windows Mobile 5.0 ( Pocket PC )
Display 3.5″ Transflective TFT LCD 65k Full-Colors, 16-bit Display QVGA, 240X320 resolution touch panel
Memory 128MB Flash ROM and 64MB SDRAM
User available storage ROM 75MB for western languages 71MB for eastern languages
GPS Latest SiRF StarIII GPS chip
Embedded 25mm*25mm swivel patch antenna
External antenna jack

Expansion Slot One slot – SD slot(SDIO/SD/MMC)
Audio Integrated microphone and speaker
One 3.5mm earphone jack and MP3 stereo
Communication Bluetooth 2.0
WLAN 802.11b + g
SIR (115.2kbps Max)
USB 1.1 Client GPS navigation
Battery 1300 mAh, removable/ rechargeable Li-ion battery
Dimension 122mm x 73.2mm x 18.8mm/19.45mm(L*W*H)
Weight 186g (with battery)
Note *Enhance Bluetooth 2.0 to Bluetooth EDR (Enhanced Data Rate).

The difference between the A636N and the A636 is that the A636 only has 11M wireless and Bluetooth 1.1. Unfortunately they both have a USB 1.1 interface. USB 2.0 was introduced in the A639.

For GPS navigation, I use TomTom software. It works well on this unit, and TomTom appears to be the software of choice. It works well, especially as I can turn the display sideways on the A636N for better viewing of maps/routes. From what I was reading around the net, the SiRF StarIII GPS chip was a must as it locked onto satellites quicker than other chips and performed better. Works well for me! As you can see from the picture, the antenna is on a swivel mount, which folds neatly behind the unit when not in use.

The other must in purchasing a PDA was getting one with a removable battery – which the Asus has got. If the battery fails, then all I have to do is replace it, not send the whole unit away for repair.

As far as the PDA side of things go, it perform like any other PDA similarly equipped. Windows pocket mobile is flawless, and connectivity to other devices via bluetooth and wireless is easy.

Installing apps is via USB connectivity to a PC running Microsoft Activesync. Again, easy to do.

What I was really impressed with is that the A636N came with all the cables/adaptors necessary – including the suction mount (and charger) for the car when using the GPS function. So the only additional purchase I had to make was a decent sized SD memory card to store all my data. The Asus comes with a 64M card.

Here’s a pic of the A636N mounted on the bracket attached to the windscreen via the suction cap:

Overall, I think the Asus 636N is a great product for a great price. It’s certainly a step up from my old LCD palm Pilot.

A online credit card is meant to help you in spending. However, most of the creditcard users have increased their purchases, that too in debit. This results in debt issues. And there is not a debt solution to every issue.

I have a couple of wireless routers at home. Having heard so much about the Linksys WRT54G being a good router to run open source firmware, I decided to buy one.

The firmware I put on it was DD-WRT . It has a good user base and support, and being easy to use I was quiet happy with it.

Then the fun started. Somehow, the power plug for the router was not sitting in the power point properly, so the unit was powering off/on in succession. Then the unit would not boot up. The power LED was flashing, and the port LEDs were not coming on when I plugged the Cat5 cables into them.

Oh no, have I ‘bricked’ the Linksys – two days after I have bought it? I did a bit of searching around and All the info I could find was for earlier model WRT54G routers that use a intel chip. The V5 does not.

Before I go on, please read this disclaimer:

I take no responsibility for any inaccuracies of the following information, or of any damage to you or your equipment. Whatever you do with your Linksys is done so at your own risk.

Also, have a read of this section on the DDWRT Wiki . There is some handy info and things to try before you get to the drastic stage.

This forum thread is a very handy one to read before trying anything also.

Having nothing to lose – as my Linksys router was useless, I decided to short out the same pins on the chip that replaced the intel on the V5. Note: to identify what version your WRT54G is, have a look at the bottom on the unit on the sticker. The version number will be listed there.

Because the photos I took were so bad (and didn’t realise it until after I put my WRT54G back together), the guide here better shows how to take the unit apart. The only difference is that the V5 has a different chip located on the PCB in a different position.

The chip in question is circled in the (bad) picture below, and pin 1 is pointed to.

With the power on, short out pins 15 and 16 (count from pin 1 left up to 15 & 16).

Hopefully this will bring your WRT54G back to life, and you then be able to ping it and, if so desired, resintall the DDWRT firmware.

As I said, it worked for me and I hope it does for you too.

Feel free to add your experiences with unbricking below…… ]]> http://lookforitoverhere.com/5/unbrick-wrt54g-v5/feed/ 32